Finding a new dance partner at a Hawaiian surf spot

Standing proudly on the sands of Waikiki Beach in Hawaii, Wiradjuri man Chandler Connell has just returned from the surf. He is still on cloud nine after taking part in a surf lesson with Hawaiian surf instructor Dave Panoke.

“It was deadly. He (David) really incorporated me into his whole practice,” he told Living Black.

“He taught me the language and gave me prayers and everything before we went into the water.”

‘Cheeky’, as Chandler likes to be called, has only recently become interested in surfing and is lucky enough to already be surfing some of the world’s most famous waves.

“I felt like I was in Lilo and Stitch. I was having the best time,” he said.

“It’s like, ‘Wow, I’m in Hawaii surfing… This is really special.’”

‘Cheeky’ never expected to be surfing in Honolulu.

His priority was to represent Australia as a First Nations delegate to the 13^e Festival of Pacific Arts and Culture, which features traditional songs and dances on the main stage and shares stories from home.

“FestPAC is a lot bigger than I thought, but it has motivated me and strengthened my spirit,” he said.

I felt very strong and knew what I stood for: that we still have a strong culture on the East Coast.

“That’s a big reason why I dance for Mob.”

Another person eager to represent her people at the festival is Hawaiian woman Makana Kāne Kuahiwinui. Dancing during the opening ceremony, she said, was magical.

“It’s just a big celebration of our culture. All that hula, the movements, the dancing, it brought me to tears at times.”

Hawaiian woman Makana Kāne Kuahiwinui looks out to sea and watches the surf

Hawaiian woman Makana Kāne Kuahiwinui looks out to sea and sees the surf. Source: NITV / Living Black

But Makana also realized it was important to hold FestPAC in Hawaii.

“Hawaii hosting this huge festival while still occupied by America could be a huge political message and could have long-term political implications.

“I am really looking forward to working together politically and thinking about sovereignty and what that looks like in our cultures.”

Finding cultural connectors

With culture on display almost everywhere at FestPAC, the similarities quickly become apparent. One of the most obvious is the unifying force the Pacific Ocean has on each of the 25 participating nations.

“The ocean connects us, nation to nation, indigenous peoples to their land, and indigenous peoples to our (Hawaiian) land,” says Makana.

“We are all just small islands, but we are the great ocean. We are the carriers of our language and our culture, because the ocean connects us.”

Chandler 'Cheeky' Connell with Makana Kāne Kuahiwinui talk about their cultures

Chandler ‘Cheeky’ Connell and Makana Kāne Kuahiwinui talk about their cultures on a Hawaiian beach. Source: NITV / Living Black

The connections are quickly made clear during a cultural exchange between ‘Cheeky’ and Makana, where the pair gather at Makana’s family surf spot, ‘Bowls’, where her family has been surfing for five generations.

“I feel a very strong responsibility for this place, for access to this place, to continue the use and cultural practice of our ocean.”

As Makana tells stories about the waterfront culture with “Cheeky,” a rainbow appears on the side of Diamond Head, the large volcano at the end of the peninsula closest to Waikiki.

Shortly after, a seabird that Makana hasn’t seen in a while appears, creating an emotional moment for the surfer.

A rainbow appears over Diamond Head in Honolulu, Hawaii Source: NITV / Ross Turner, Living Black

“I’m getting teary-eyed because that rainbow is called a koʻiʻula, and I named my son after that rainbow. And there’s a bird out there that’s my family. It represents my grandfather. I haven’t seen that bird in a long time. So I’m crying because this moment is so full for me.”

‘Cheeky’ understands: he also grew up with Country and knows how important the elements are for teaching.

“I love what you shared (Makana), because it’s the same as home. You’re connected to the rain, you’re connected to the wind, you’re connected to the water, so Country teaches us everything. That’s our first teacher.”

Hawaiian surfing in Australia

Surfing star Duke Kahanamoku Source: YouTube / Duke Kahanamoku Foundation

As ‘Cheeky’ and Makana talk about culture, their love of surfing soon comes up.

Makana is eager to learn more and tells stories about the local legend, Duke Kahanamoku, also known as the father of surfing.

“Duke showed the world that surfing was a pastime, a way of life. He was an all-around ocean guy, a swimmer, a surfer. He really put Hawaii on the map.”

The surfer and Olympian is also credited with bringing surfing to Australia in 1914, something Eric Middledorp disputes.

Eric, a member of the historical committee of the Freshwater Surf Lifesaving Club in Sydney, says that while Duke played an important role in popularising surfing in Australia, he was not the first to introduce it here.

Freshwater Surf Lifesaving Club Historical Committee Member, Eric Middledorp, stands with Duke Kahanamoku’s surfboard. The board was used at Freshwater Beach during the summer of 1914/15 during Duke’s surf exhibition. Source: NITV / Ross Turner, Living Black

“Australians have actually been surfing for a lot longer. Several Australian surfers, like the Walker brothers from Manly, have been surfing for 10-15 years before Duke came along.

“But in reality, our local indigenous people would have been in the surf for thousands of years,” says Eric.

“The indigenous people surfed with their bodies, pieces of wood and even canoes, but they were the first to surf, especially because they are the oldest culture in the world.”

Talking to the surf

David Panoke tells the story of Waikiki Beach and Duke Kahanamoku to Living Black

David Panoke tells the story of Waikiki Beach and Duke Kahanamoku to Chandler ‘Cheeky’ Connell Source: NITV / Living Black

As Cheeky prepares to hit the waves, the shadow of a large statue of Duke Kahanamoku looms large behind him. His instructor David tells him that the location where he is surfing is where Duke and Chiefs would have surfed long ago.

‘Cheeky’ is humbled to hear this and wants to make sure he is respectful. His own cultural understanding tells him how important this location is.

After a Hawaiian prayer with David before hitting the surf, the duo head to the break known locally as ‘Canoes’. After a few ‘stacks’, ‘Cheeky’ is soon on his board and having a great time.

After an hour and some sage advice from David, the Wiradjuri dancer seems to have found a new dance partner.

“He gave me the same comment that every choreographer gives me; bend my knees and I’ll be fine. As soon as I bent my knees, I was fine. I was surfing from there. I even got a couple ten-foot barrels in there; Nah Gammon!” jokes ‘Cheeky’.

Surfers at Waikiki Beach Source: NITV / Living Black

“That wave is your dance partner. If you don’t listen to your partner, you get thrown and I got thrown a few times. As soon as I listened to the waves, I was right there and we danced together.”

As the cultural exchange of surfing comes to an end for ‘Cheeky’, the aspiring surfer feels the intercultural ties between First Nations peoples are stronger than ever.

“It shows how we’ve always shared stories, practices and culture. Particularly with Uncle Duke coming to Australia and sharing that practice, and now it’s all over Australia. It’s really deadly. I can’t wait to get back home, learn more and maybe even visit his statue in Freshwater.”

This episode of Living Black can be seen on SBS at 3:10 PM on Tuesdays or can be viewed again on SBS On Demand.

Living Black is also available to stream for free on SBS On Demand and is subtitled in Arabic, Simplified Chinese, Traditional Chinese, Korean and Vietnamese.

chw-dumpling

Finding a new dance partner at a Hawaiian surf spot

Finding cultural connectors

Hawaiian surfing in Australia

Talking to the surf

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