Can you enjoy an active holiday with a toddler in tow?

It’s easy to assume that having children completely changes the way you travel, and to some extent that’s true. There are a thousand more practical considerations once you get into the mix, and – depending on their age – there are limitations to what they can do.

I used to love long walks, impressive landscapes and just being as active as possible abroad. But for my three-year-old daughter, a brisk walk is about 15 minutes.

So I didn’t think I’d be able to tackle a 50km road bike ride on my first solo parenting trip with my child – and yet here I am, after setting myself a single 432m climb to the village of Profilia, Rhodes, with about 20 other riders, enjoying the rolling hills, olive trees and small white villages of the largest of Greece’s Dodecanese islands. In the meantime, my daughter is being professionally cared for in a childcare facility in my hotel.

With sustained gradients of 10%, this is the steepest climb on the road cycling program at Mark Warner’s Kamari Beach Resort, and during those last few twists and turns, legs burning, cheerleading from lead cyclist, retired pro Eleni Tsavari – who was just as coincidentally 27-time Greek champion, European and world champion on the track and road before retiring three years ago – was appreciated.

‘Another five hundred meters! You got this!” she shouts as she rides in front, and with legs like jelly in the dry heat, I can finally enjoy an iced coffee at the top.

Eleni was born in Rhodes and of all the Greek islands (Crete is also famous for its cycling routes) she believes there is the most to offer on two wheels.

“Honestly, it’s not because I’m from here, I think it’s for the best. We have perfect weather – even in winter it is 15 or 16 degrees, or at worst six to eight degrees, but still nice. We have a lot of uphill. We have good quality asphalt and when you leave the center of the cities it is completely empty (on the roads). In winter there are no cars at all, only local people live here, so it’s perfect.”

Every year, she says, Rhodes becomes a better-known cycling destination, rivaling Mallorca, and the Greek national team trains and races here. “This isn’t luck,” she jokes. “My dream is to see the island of Rhodes full of cyclists.”

My Profilia lineage is a perfect example; no cars, smooth asphalt, allowing the bike to glide over the roads from bend to bend. An unfortunate flat tire causes me to slow down, but Eleni insists I ride her (very professional) bike back to Kamari Beach, where my hotel is on the east coast of the island, while she fixes it.

The remains of charred black trees can be seen along some parts of the coastal path – a lasting reminder of the devastating Rhodes bushfires of July 2023, during the hottest month on record.

For keen cyclists, the hotel’s program of rides in the morning is quite challenging, ranging from 25km to Lindos to a 75km ride to Kattavia and even a hilly 100km in the forests on the other side of the island. We get bikes from Cannondale. There are also gentle mountain bike rides to local (lower elevation) villages and beaches nearby every afternoon (the golden sands of Lee Beach are worth a visit).

For the many parents who undertake these rides, or the many other activities and lessons included in the half-board price (such as group lessons for tennis, padel, sailing and windsurfing – from beginners to returning customers who perfect their skills every year), that is only possibly because they feel confident leaving their children in childcare – knowing they will have a good time too.

As a British company, the childcare workers (babies and toddlers) have similar qualifications to what you would expect at home, NYQ childcare level 3, but with even better ratios. In the baby club (four to twelve months) one carer looks after two babies, for one year olds it is 1:3, for two year olds it is 1:4 and for my daughter’s age group it is 1:6 (although there are only three children in her group this week, looked after by the lovely Annabel). The service runs up to age 17, should you require it.

During my 3.5 hour cycle, my daughter Sacha did crafts, built sand castles and even kayaked in the shallow water (in a life jacket with two caregivers in the boat). During the week she made new friends, played mini tennis, splashed in the paddling pool, painted, sang songs, played games – and even after the break I am a better mother.

Morning or afternoon sessions are included in the half board price, which gives a nice balance to a family holiday (although extras can be added), as well as evening sessions from 7.30pm to 10pm where children watch a film, sweet or individual camp beds and sleeping bags on the floor set up – while parents can eat without children if they wish, and carry a sleepy child to bed when they’re done.

A hotel can have a luxurious interior and excellent service, but for me childcare on holiday feels like a real luxury; a few hours on a sun lounger, a chance to swim freely in the crystal clear sea, visit the spa, or just have a cup of tea undisturbed (parents of young children, you know).

Early one morning I open the curtains of our spacious sea view family room (with more than enough room for four people), which overlooks the huge swimming pool (with plenty of shallow water, perfect for young children), to a mass of still sea beyond. Usually the conditions in the bay are ideal for intermediate and intermediate (and sometimes advanced) windsurfers, but today, without an ounce of wind, I have to abandon my plans to grab a board and set sail, and after I take my kid dropped off, go to the beach, set out on a paddle board to take advantage of the still water.

As I paddle further out of the bay, there is a morning mist that almost makes the blue-gray sky and the sea in front of me merge. I take a deep breath and lie down on my board, losing track of time and feeling completely in the moment. With a toddler in the house I don’t get much of it.

In between the busy activities program, many guests do not leave the hotel, but the nearby area is worth exploring on two feet as well as on two wheels. The small village of Lardos has a splash of cafes and restaurants, but if you take the local bus 20 minutes north along the coastal road you will see the spectacular Lindos Acropolis, 116 meters high, with the village of Lindos – with braided walkways crossing low, whitewashed buildings below.

They overlook picture-postcard St Paul’s Bay, with a small white chapel marking a bend and pristine yellow sand running around to the sophisticated Tambakio restaurant. It feels like a special find as we spend an afternoon swimming and playing in the perfect shallow water. Access to the beach is free and the Bali beds cost 40 euros to rent – ​​but it could be worth it for a family for a whole day in this beautiful place.

Mark Warner (0845 322 5037) offers a week at Kamari Beach Resort from £699 per adult and £199 per child, sharing three. Includes return flights from London Gatwick, seven nights’ half-board accommodation and transfers, activities and tuition, plus six mornings or afternoons of childcare.